The other Athens

I think that most people have already seen enough pictures of the Acropolis, Temple of Zeus and so on, but when do you get to see the other side of Athens, from the really scuzzy to the frankly strange? Is Greece the only country where they sell shoes (not medical footware, mind you) in pharmacies?

From Athens April 2009

From Athens April 2009

From Athens April 2009

From Athens April 2009

Are you sitting comfortably?

High above Athens stands the Church of Agios Isidorou. From here, sitting on benches that form a horseshoe of seating around the diminutive church, you can look down on the breathtaking spread of the city, born of the unfortunate union of reinforced concrete with laissez-faire urban planning.

As you sit, you can also enjoy amusingly phrased signs like this one, attached to the back of the pole that holds up the strings of fairy lights that illuminate the church at night. It says: "Peak hours may necessitate that you let other people sit on your lap."
Get set for peace, love and understanding.

No guns, no dogs - them's the rules

Bulgaria may be part of the EU, but there are still things about the country that distinguish it from most others in Europe. One of them is the "No Guns" stickers that are found on the doors of bars, clubs and even shopping centres.
And indeed Sofia, the country's capital, does have a higher level of gun crime than many other comparable cities. But do you think that the Sofia gangstas will see the signs and leave their shooters (and hopefully their pit bulls) in their SUVs? Somehow I doubt it...

What we did on our holidays: Part 1 - Serbia

It might seem a little eccentric to take the train from Cologne to Sofia in Bulgaria, but then again, maybe I am a little eccentric. En route plenty of interesting things happened, including random bag searches by obstreperous border guards and thievery in the small hours (I'll tell you about it later). There was also plenty to see. I was particularly impressed with the mysterious and beautiful Serbian countryside and the affecting state of disrepair of the railway stations. The pictures below come from my Sony-Ericsson mobile phone, by the way.

A day at the races

Having grown up in England, racing is a pastime that I associate with the Derby, the Grand National and ladies in funny hats. Basically an experience for the elite and the addicted.

Going to the races in Germany is, in comparison, a pleasantly democratic experience, involving everything that you would expect from a Volksfest, including sausages, beer, fried fish and red-faced gentlemen mopping brows warmed by indulgence in the aforementioned foodstuffs.



As well as offering relaxing atmosphere, our local racecourse in Cologne also provides a gently-paced racing schedule which allows racegoers to flow from track to paddock and back to the track like a gentle human tide.

But I think I'm beginning to overreach myself on the metaphors. Whatever - I'll be there again a few more times before the season is out.

Hook Norton Brewery

For me, one of the great pleasures of being in England is the beer. Lower in alcohol than the continental stuff (3-4 percent), with bags of flavour and all the more drinkable for not being too cold or too fizzy.

One of the best proponents of classic ales in Oxfordshire is the Hook Norton Brewery in North Oxfordshire, a historical firm that dominates the charming Cotswold village of the same name.

We went to the Brewery recently, taking a look at the museum before repairing to the Tasting Room, where we tried several beers from the Hook Norton range: Hooky Best, a clear, plangent bitter; the weightier, hoppier Old Hooky; and the superb Gold, a pale ale of supernal delicacy with a floral nose and a beautifully balanced finish.

After making several necessary purchases we moved on to the nearby pub for a bite of lunch - and a decent pint of beer. I chose mother-in-law pie for lunch - a steak pie that is so named because the meat is marinaded in Old and Bitter before being cooked.

Thanks to my dad for staying sober and driving us home...


The brewery


A pub sign, perhaps?

Penny lane is in my ears

...and in my eyes. But it's not on Merseyside. Of course the 'real' Penny Lane is in Liverpool, but there's another one in the wonderfully named Crazies Hill in Berkshire, just a few steps from my parents' front door. As a child I used to take the family dog walking here. Now I can take my son. Unfortunately he doesn't really like wearing a lead and collar, though.

Where once there were fields of wheat, rye and cattle on either side of this enchanting, high-walled ancient footpath, one side now borders a golf course, which means that you have to keep an eye out for hard white flying objects and people wearing silly clothes shouting "four"!

But the golf course does have one advantage. Four year olds find the idea of looking for golf balls very entertaining and can be persuaded to take very long walks when there's a promise of finding plenty of them. Our haul on the day in question was ... four!

Photos below show the beginning (with my son Ivan), middle and end of Penny Lane, starting on Worley's Lane and ending on Crazies Hill road.

The Rollright Stones

Standing stones are a feature of the English countryside, like narrow, hedged-in lanes and endless golf clubs. The Rollright Stones in North Oxfordshire are a particularly atmospheric example, due to the strange, weathered appearance of the stones and the legend which says that they are in fact a group of warriors who were turned to stone by a witch.

Puffball

While we were in England we spent a lot of time walking, and one of the oddest things we saw on our walks was this puffball.



About the size of a standard football, it was the largest I have ever seen, and was a source of amazement to my son. When I told him that it is a kind of fungus/mushroom, and that it is also edible he said "Is that a joke, daddy?"
As you can see from the pictures we did give it a little tap to get it properly puffing.

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